Caring For Your Netherland Dwarf at Home
Congratulations on your new addition! Owning a netherland dwarf rabbit is a very rewarding experience.
To help you ensure that your new family member gets the care he/she needs, I've compiled some helpful information and tips.
The first thing I recommend is to research before bringing your new bunny home. Prepare yourself and your family for the commitment to care for your rabbit for it's life time, usually 6-8yrs.
Netherland dwarfs make excellent pets for not only children but adults as well. They are the smallest breed of rabbit in the world, usually weighing no more then 2.5lbs (average being 2lbs) They are known for their small compact bodies, round head, big wide eyes, short ears and come in a large variety of colours.
Rabbits love attention from humans, and the more you interact with your bunny the more s/he will respond to you. Young children must be supervised while handling the bunny because a simple drop could severely hurt him/her.
Though a rabbit can be allowed to roam the house, NEVER leave them unsupervised. They dig, jump and WILL chew electrical wires if left up to their own devices.
If allowing your rabbit time to roam outside, make sure it's in a well fenced enclosure that will protect them from predators and again they shouldn't be left unsupervised. A harness and leash work well for rabbits too, but they cannot be left tied out.
Netherland dwarfs do not require the company of another rabbit. They actually prefer their own space. So if you have more then one rabbit, it's best they each have their own cage.
I've been told two females can live happily together if they grew up together, as well as 2 neutered males can live happily together. I do not have personal experience with this, but have seen rabbits live together. The choice is ultimately up to you. Two un-neutered boys will fight and if you cage an unaltered male and female together, well you'll need more cages.
Housing
Their cage is their home. It must be secure and protect them from other animals in the house.
The cage size is most dependent on whether your new friend has a lot of roaming time around the house. They can be quite comfortable in a 18x24x14 cage and can be purchased at any local pet store ranging in prices of $60 and up, however your breeder may have used cages at a discounted price.
Rabbits can be housed indoors or outdoors. If your planning on housing your rabbit outdoors make sure it's cage has an area s/he can get out of the elements and plenty of hay to build a warm nest. In our canadian winters I do recommend that your rabbit not be left outside as the temperature can reach -40C with the wind chill. Instead, perhaps bring the bunny and it's home into a garage or barn or even a small shed.
If your housing your bunny indoors, choose a place free of drafts and do not place them next to a heater, curtains or wires.
Bedding
Pine shavings work great as bedding for your rabbit. This can be bought at your local pet store in small bags if your tight on space. However if you have the room, I recommend purchasing a big bale of pine shavings from your local feed store or TSC (roughly $6-$8).
Rabbits can be litter trained and because they pick a corner of their cage for their bathroom, sometimes it's as easy and buying a corner litter box and putting it in their corner of choice. Be careful though, because some rabbits like to play with their litter boxes, so I suggest securing it to the bars.
Feeding and Water
Your rabbit requires fresh water daily, being from either a dish or a water bottle that hangs on the outside of their cage. My preference is for the water bottles simply because my rabbits like to play in their water dish, not only creating a large wet mess, but also forcing me to fill their water dishes more then required.
You can buy their food from any local pet store in small bags, or you can buy a big bag of rabbit food from your local feed store or TSC which will go a long way for just one netherland dwarf. Always keep your food in an air tight container because feed left open to the air looses it's nutrients and becomes stale. Most rabbits do not like to eat stale food.
For a food dish I recommend a heavy bowl or one that attaches to the cage. Rabbits are playful curious folk and mine are known to dump their dishes.
Give your rabbit plenty of timothy hay. It helps with digestion and keeps them full so they don't need to eat as much pellets which can lead to an over weight bunny.
Alfalfa hay is a nice treat, but too much can cause diarrhea or soft poop.
I recommend buying some sort of hay manger for the side of their cage to keep the hay from getting soiled. If you don't have extra funds for that, I personally use toilet paper rolls and stuff their hay in that. It helps the hay from being soiled and slept on and provides the bunnies with an interesting toy.
Although these treats are safe for rabbits, only feed them in moderation. Their main diet should consist of hay and pellets.
Some safe treats to feed your bunny include crackers, carrots, carrot tops, grapes, banana, oatmeal, rolled oats, peanuts, almonds, apples (no seeds), dandelions, cheerios, berries, pears, leaves and stems of broccoli, cherries (without the pits) peach, and melons to name a few.
Rabbit treats from the pet store are good for them too, but can be fattening, so again feed in moderation.
Do NOT feed your rabbit lettuce.
Rabbits like to chew on wood. I go out to my back yard and cut off branches from my apple tree. Pet stores sell wood chews for rabbits. Something for them to chew on should always be made available or they may turn to chewing on their cage. Chewing helps rabbits file down their teeth that continuously grow throughout their life.
Bringing Your New Bunny Home
Now that you have everything you need to house and care for a bunny, it's time to pick your bun!
Netherland dwarfs come in so many varieties of colour. Choosing a colour should depend on your personal preference as well as your future plans for your new bunny. If you plan on showing your new rabbit, there are certain colours that cannot be shown.
Look for bright eyes, healthy soft fur, straight legs and great personality that best reflects you.
I always recommend purchasing from a reputable breeder, simply because they can assist you in choosing the right bunny to fit your needs and wants, they should come with a pedigree which is their family tree and proof that they're purebred and it is also needed if you should ever want to show your rabbit.
Once you've chosen your dream bunny, it's time to bring him/her home. I use a simple cat carrier to transport my bunnies, but pet stores do sell special small animal carriers. If it's just a short trip, a simple card board box will suffice (watch out for leaks though!)
Once home, give your new bunny some time to get use to his/her new home as it can be overwhelming for them being shuffled about. My rabbits leave here with some of the food and hay they're currently on so that they can be slowly switched to the food you have chosen for them. This allows a less sudden drastic change to their sensitive digestive tract and offers something familiar in an already stressful situation.
Handling your new bunny can be daunting for first timers, but is actually quite simple. I pick my rabbits up in a variety of ways so that they are use to be handled differently. The best way is a hand under the stomach just behind the front legs and your other hand supporting their bum. A scared bunny likes to bury their head under your arm or chin. It helps them feel secure. They don't like being held suspended in the air, it makes them feel like a predator has gotten them and will panic.
Rabbits do not need vaccinations like cats and dogs, they should however be seen by a vet for yearly wellness check ups (an exam)
For emergency purposes I recommend keeping a veterinarian's phone number on hand who specializes in rabbit care.
A rabbit should have their nails trimmed at least once a month. I always trim my rabbits nails before they leave my rabbitry. I'd also be happy to show you how to trim your bunnies nails.
Congratulations on your new family member and ENJOY!
This knowledge is based on my personal experience and research. I am not a veterinarian.
Congratulations on your new addition! Owning a netherland dwarf rabbit is a very rewarding experience.
To help you ensure that your new family member gets the care he/she needs, I've compiled some helpful information and tips.
The first thing I recommend is to research before bringing your new bunny home. Prepare yourself and your family for the commitment to care for your rabbit for it's life time, usually 6-8yrs.
Netherland dwarfs make excellent pets for not only children but adults as well. They are the smallest breed of rabbit in the world, usually weighing no more then 2.5lbs (average being 2lbs) They are known for their small compact bodies, round head, big wide eyes, short ears and come in a large variety of colours.
Rabbits love attention from humans, and the more you interact with your bunny the more s/he will respond to you. Young children must be supervised while handling the bunny because a simple drop could severely hurt him/her.
Though a rabbit can be allowed to roam the house, NEVER leave them unsupervised. They dig, jump and WILL chew electrical wires if left up to their own devices.
If allowing your rabbit time to roam outside, make sure it's in a well fenced enclosure that will protect them from predators and again they shouldn't be left unsupervised. A harness and leash work well for rabbits too, but they cannot be left tied out.
Netherland dwarfs do not require the company of another rabbit. They actually prefer their own space. So if you have more then one rabbit, it's best they each have their own cage.
I've been told two females can live happily together if they grew up together, as well as 2 neutered males can live happily together. I do not have personal experience with this, but have seen rabbits live together. The choice is ultimately up to you. Two un-neutered boys will fight and if you cage an unaltered male and female together, well you'll need more cages.
Housing
Their cage is their home. It must be secure and protect them from other animals in the house.
The cage size is most dependent on whether your new friend has a lot of roaming time around the house. They can be quite comfortable in a 18x24x14 cage and can be purchased at any local pet store ranging in prices of $60 and up, however your breeder may have used cages at a discounted price.
Rabbits can be housed indoors or outdoors. If your planning on housing your rabbit outdoors make sure it's cage has an area s/he can get out of the elements and plenty of hay to build a warm nest. In our canadian winters I do recommend that your rabbit not be left outside as the temperature can reach -40C with the wind chill. Instead, perhaps bring the bunny and it's home into a garage or barn or even a small shed.
If your housing your bunny indoors, choose a place free of drafts and do not place them next to a heater, curtains or wires.
Bedding
Pine shavings work great as bedding for your rabbit. This can be bought at your local pet store in small bags if your tight on space. However if you have the room, I recommend purchasing a big bale of pine shavings from your local feed store or TSC (roughly $6-$8).
Rabbits can be litter trained and because they pick a corner of their cage for their bathroom, sometimes it's as easy and buying a corner litter box and putting it in their corner of choice. Be careful though, because some rabbits like to play with their litter boxes, so I suggest securing it to the bars.
Feeding and Water
Your rabbit requires fresh water daily, being from either a dish or a water bottle that hangs on the outside of their cage. My preference is for the water bottles simply because my rabbits like to play in their water dish, not only creating a large wet mess, but also forcing me to fill their water dishes more then required.
You can buy their food from any local pet store in small bags, or you can buy a big bag of rabbit food from your local feed store or TSC which will go a long way for just one netherland dwarf. Always keep your food in an air tight container because feed left open to the air looses it's nutrients and becomes stale. Most rabbits do not like to eat stale food.
For a food dish I recommend a heavy bowl or one that attaches to the cage. Rabbits are playful curious folk and mine are known to dump their dishes.
Give your rabbit plenty of timothy hay. It helps with digestion and keeps them full so they don't need to eat as much pellets which can lead to an over weight bunny.
Alfalfa hay is a nice treat, but too much can cause diarrhea or soft poop.
I recommend buying some sort of hay manger for the side of their cage to keep the hay from getting soiled. If you don't have extra funds for that, I personally use toilet paper rolls and stuff their hay in that. It helps the hay from being soiled and slept on and provides the bunnies with an interesting toy.
Although these treats are safe for rabbits, only feed them in moderation. Their main diet should consist of hay and pellets.
Some safe treats to feed your bunny include crackers, carrots, carrot tops, grapes, banana, oatmeal, rolled oats, peanuts, almonds, apples (no seeds), dandelions, cheerios, berries, pears, leaves and stems of broccoli, cherries (without the pits) peach, and melons to name a few.
Rabbit treats from the pet store are good for them too, but can be fattening, so again feed in moderation.
Do NOT feed your rabbit lettuce.
Rabbits like to chew on wood. I go out to my back yard and cut off branches from my apple tree. Pet stores sell wood chews for rabbits. Something for them to chew on should always be made available or they may turn to chewing on their cage. Chewing helps rabbits file down their teeth that continuously grow throughout their life.
Bringing Your New Bunny Home
Now that you have everything you need to house and care for a bunny, it's time to pick your bun!
Netherland dwarfs come in so many varieties of colour. Choosing a colour should depend on your personal preference as well as your future plans for your new bunny. If you plan on showing your new rabbit, there are certain colours that cannot be shown.
Look for bright eyes, healthy soft fur, straight legs and great personality that best reflects you.
I always recommend purchasing from a reputable breeder, simply because they can assist you in choosing the right bunny to fit your needs and wants, they should come with a pedigree which is their family tree and proof that they're purebred and it is also needed if you should ever want to show your rabbit.
Once you've chosen your dream bunny, it's time to bring him/her home. I use a simple cat carrier to transport my bunnies, but pet stores do sell special small animal carriers. If it's just a short trip, a simple card board box will suffice (watch out for leaks though!)
Once home, give your new bunny some time to get use to his/her new home as it can be overwhelming for them being shuffled about. My rabbits leave here with some of the food and hay they're currently on so that they can be slowly switched to the food you have chosen for them. This allows a less sudden drastic change to their sensitive digestive tract and offers something familiar in an already stressful situation.
Handling your new bunny can be daunting for first timers, but is actually quite simple. I pick my rabbits up in a variety of ways so that they are use to be handled differently. The best way is a hand under the stomach just behind the front legs and your other hand supporting their bum. A scared bunny likes to bury their head under your arm or chin. It helps them feel secure. They don't like being held suspended in the air, it makes them feel like a predator has gotten them and will panic.
Rabbits do not need vaccinations like cats and dogs, they should however be seen by a vet for yearly wellness check ups (an exam)
For emergency purposes I recommend keeping a veterinarian's phone number on hand who specializes in rabbit care.
A rabbit should have their nails trimmed at least once a month. I always trim my rabbits nails before they leave my rabbitry. I'd also be happy to show you how to trim your bunnies nails.
Congratulations on your new family member and ENJOY!
This knowledge is based on my personal experience and research. I am not a veterinarian.